When somebody mentions
Bwindi Impenetrable National Park in south western
Uganda, the first picture that pops into your mind is the
mountain gorilla,
right?
Well, it happened to me as well when I checked the plan we were to follow
alongside this year’s Miss Tourism contestants.
The contestants were to film part of their boot camp around tourist sites
like
Murchison Falls National Park,
Queen Elizabeth National Park,
Kibale
National Park and
Bwindi Impenetrable National Park.
While other parks have a lot to offer in
flora and fauna,
Bwindi is synonymous with the endangered species of mountain gorillas. The park
boasts of half the world’s population of
Gorillas (approximately 400).
But that is not all about Bwindi. A first-time visitor will appreciate the
beauty of this park. As soon as we drove through the
Buhoma entrance at Bwindi
Forest, we were struck by the piercing chills amid tall trees of over 1,000
species.
You may have heard that
Bwindi forests can be cold in the mornings and
evenings, but when it is cold in Bwindi, it is really cold. Our knuckles
popped. We froze.
Nothing inside the vehicle could warm us up as we drove to Ruhija village,
east of Bwindi. The village is just outside the park boundary and is home to
three gorilla groups namely
Bitukura,
Oruzogo and
Kyaguriro.
The road to this village is rocky and almost impassable
when
it rains. The journey takes close to two hours. It took us three hours
because we could not easily navigate through the muddy and water-logged road as
our mini-bus was not elevated enough. Whenever we encountered a deeper
water-hole and the driver laboured to beat it, the girls would disembark from
the bus, lest it rolled down the valley.
The baboons that patrol the roads seemed familiar with vehicles. When they
saw our vehicle, they retreated to nearby trees and cliffs not in fear, but to
give way and after, resumed their road patrol. The
colobus monkey that rarely
touches the ground just peeked through the tree branches as if in
acknowledgement and then resumed its leaf-eating.
As kilometres raced under the bus, the journey got tedious since we had
driven all night from Murchison Falls National Park in Masindi and accessed
Bwindi through Queen Elizabeth National Park via Ishasha.
We were awed by the sight of mist-covered hillsides blanketed by this old
diverse forest. The home settlements down the forested narrow valley and the
rising Virunga volcanoes, in a haze, were such a marvel.
Our evening at Ruhija was not hospitable enough as the wild rains sent us
huddling around the only furnace at the Gorilla safari Lodge overlooking the
valley forest and volcanoes, where we pitched camp for the night. The good
thing is, we were all bracing for the one activity you just cannot miss out on
while at this park. We were to track gorillas the next day.
GORILLA TRACKING
By 8:00am, we were at Ruhija tourism zone outpost getting briefed about the
trek. We were to keep at least seven metres away from gorillas to avoid disease
transmission between us and them.
A silverback gorilla. Bwindi
is home to many gorilla groups, each comprised of about 19 members
We were warned not to run for our lives when the gorillas charge at us, but
stand still and look down. I must say, chills swept down my spine at the mere
mention of a gorilla charging at us. Really? We should not run for dear life?
After the orientation, we were each given walking sticks and off we went
into the forest to start our search. On our way, Uganda Wildlife Authority
ranger Job Nahabwe, who led us in the tracking, showed us the Olea tree species
that gorillas love for their fruits. We also saw the thorny Rubus specie,
Momodica trees, Urea hypsoldendron and the Rytigimia tree species known to be
medicinal to human beings.
Even after encountering a huge heap of their faeces abandoned on the leafy
ground, 30 minutes later, we had not seen any
gorilla. But the varied melodies
of the birds and the swinging monkeys up in the trees served as a precursor of things
to come.
We abandoned our walking sticks along the way because we had to penetrate
deeper down the valleys past a rich population of flowering plants, various
tree species and ferns.
Time check: 10:37am and Eureka! we finally found a
gorilla. The unique black
and silver gorilla at Katonvi area of
Bwindi was seated on the leafy ground
like a retired elderly citizen in his compound, counting his ducklings. Its
black cub huffed around, playing by its dad just like a human child basking in
a treat.
The other individuals revelled in their breakfast, breaking branches and
picking leaves, only that there was no drink to escort the digested foliage.
This silverback we found is called Rukina and heads the Kyaguriro troop made up
of 19 gorillas.
It felt great being close to Rukina and his troop who were grunting and
belching, signalling contentment at whatever meal or dessert of fruits they
were having. And that sealed it for us in Bwindi.
By
Bruce Amp