Cheetahs return to Kidepo

Cheetahs are among the rarest wild animals, like this one at the Cheetah Conservation Fund center in Otjiwarongo, Namibia.

More cheetahs have been sighted in Kidepo National Park in Uganda, says John Masereka, the conservation area manager.

Previously there were fears that the cheetahs, which are among the rarest wild animals, were near extinction. In Uganda, they found only in the Karamoja sub-region.

The increased sightings have given hope to wildlife conservation that the situation is not as bad as it was thought, with the cheetah numbers in Uganda currently estimated at 20.

"It is becoming common to encounter cheetahs. Last month [December], tourists encountered six cheetahs. This is part of the brightest moments for visitors intending to see the big cats at Kidepo," said Masereka.

Cheetahs are among the key tourist attraction but they are also categorized among the endangered species, which are listed under Appendix 1 of the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of wild flora and fauna (CITES).

In essence, this means that if nothing is done to protect them or their habitat, they will become extinct.

Masereka said conservation efforts in protected areas such as Kidepo will help to secure the park and nearby landscapes such as the animals corridors for wildlife to thrive.

Aggrey Rwetsiba, a senior monitoring officer at the Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA) said the cheetah population is still small but it is growing and the prospects have never been brighter than now.

The cheetahs are elusive animals that belong to the cat family and frequent sighting is expected to boost the popularity of Kidepo as a true part of the remaining wilderness globally.

Covering 1,440 square kilometres, Kidepo is sitting in north eastern Uganda, sharing a border with Kenya and South Sudan. It was gazetted 50 years ago after Uganda's independence.

UWA's conservation programme at Kidepo has been boosted by the Africa Wildlife Foundation, which is being supported by USAID to implement a four-year programme that is expected to invest more in wildlife conservation within and outside Kidepo.

Others include UNDP, which is also implementing a four-year programme on conservation of critical landscapes in north eastern Uganda.

By Bruce Amp

Game Park tourists increase by 17.5%

These gracefulgiraffes grace on a hot day at Kidepo National Park

Visitor numbers to the protected areas has increased by 17.5%, the highest rise ever since the creation of the Uganda Wildlife Authority two decades ago, according to Barbra Ameso, UWA’s marketing and research officer.

Ameso attributed the high increase in the numbers to the solar eclipse, an event that attracted many tourists to Murchison Falls National Park.  

“Uganda has unmatched attractions like the Mountain gorillas,” said Ameso, adding and the accolades lavished on Uganda by travel magazines including the Lonely Planet catapulted Uganda into the global spotlight.

 Kidepo National Park in the north eastern part of the Uganda was last year listed by CNN among the top 10 parks in Africa.

The windswept Kidepo has large herds of buffaloes and a wide uninterrupted landscape surrounded by Karimojong pastoralists who have a rich culture.

Ameso said the visitor numbers increased from 182,149 in 2012 to 213,949 which amounts to 17.5%. She also said that foreigners contributed 43% of the visitors and the rest included Ugandans and East Africans.

Tourists take photographs of buffaloes at Kidepo.

Antelopes graze at Murchison Falls National Park. 

A school of hippopotumes enjoy a moment at Murchinson Falls National Park

Four Topis graze together at Queen Elizabeth National Park.

Murchison Falls National Park attracted the highest number of visitors, followed by Queen Elizabeth National Park. Though visitors going to Kidepo have increased, the most pristine park came third after the most popular parks, Murchison and Queen.

Lake Mburo National Park in Mbarara, which is being developed into a suitable product for domestic tourism, was the least visited park. 

The top wildlife agency is working with Africa Wildlife Foundation with the support of USAID to increase the visitor numbers at Mburo.

UWA, which was established in 1996 after the merger of the colonial set up Uganda national parks and the Game Department, manages 10 national parks and 12 wildlife reserves located in different parts of the country.

By Bruce Amp

African Queen returns to Nile waters

The AfricanQueen boat motors on the Nile in Jinja, Uganda, on December 21, 2013.

JINJA - Sixty years after Humphrey Bogart steered her through crocodile infested waters, the African Queen is back plying the Nile.

Lovingly restored, the boat is operated by Cam McLeay, a New Zealand adventurer and Nile enthusiast, and took its first passengers for a ride in December.

"The African Queen belongs on the Nile. So it is so important to have the boat back home over 60 years after the film was made," McLeay told AFP.

In 1950 Bogart and Katherine Hepburn flew into Uganda together with a huge team from Hollywood to shoot the movie of the same name.

The film told the story of a prim missionary and a gruff adventurer, the captain of the African Queen -- two totally different characters -- who in true silver screen fashion end up falling in love despite the odds.

Hepburn wrote a frothy account of the making of the African Queen, which was shot between Uganda and neighbouring Democratic Republic of the Congo, subtitled "How I went to Africa with Bogart, Bacall and Houston and almost lost my mind".

Based on a 1934 novel by C.S. Forester, the movie was set during World War I in German-occupied east Africa.

"There were actually two of these boats, one of them was in Congo and this is the Nile'sAfrican Queen," explained McLeay, who recounts his love affair with the Nile.

"I'm very attached to the Nile. I've travelled the full length of the river, from the Mediterranean to the source in Nyungwe," the father of three recounted. "I've been up and down the river for 16 years."

Cam McLeay, owner of the African Queen , sits on his boat with his colleagues on the shores of the River Nile in Jinja.

Back in the 1990s he set up a rafting company in Uganda's Jinja area, and then had an eco-lodge built on an island in the river.

McLeay says he wants his projects to be sustainable -- from both an economic and an environmental point of view.

Recreation of past times

He then started thinking about a river boat to do trips and sundowner cruises for tourists, showcasing the scenery and the very varied birdlife.

"Just on this section here, we have over 100 species of birds. It's just beautiful to be on the river here at the sunset on the Equator," he told AFP.

McLeay learned of the existence of the African Queen when on holiday on Kenya's island of Lamu, where traditional Arabic-style sailing dhows with lateen sails are common.

"I was looking for an authentic African boat to run on the Nile and I was thinking of buying a Swahili dhow," he recounted.

"Then this hotel owner said: 'Why don't you buy the African Queen? She's from Uganda!'"

A week later McLeay had gone to Nairobi and tracked down Yank Evans, a septuagenarian who explained how he had found the hull of the boat abandoned in northern Uganda's MurchisonFalls national park 20 years earlier and had done it up.

When he left Uganda for Kenya he brought the boat with him.

Another five years went by between the boat's return to the banks of the Nile and the start of services on the river.

One of the challenges was to rebuild the steam engine, which was more than 100 years old.

The African Queen boat motors on the Nile in Jinja, Uganda.

In the movie, directed by John Huston and released in 1951, the boat was powered by a diesel engine that was made to look like a steam engine.

But when Evans restored it he decided to fit a real steam engine and had one airfreighted from Britain.

"When we got this boat, the boiler had been sitting around for a very long time," explained Gavin Fahey, the African Queen's captain and mechanic, adding that he had to strip down the engine and re-machine it.

McLeay explains that he has tried to recreate an atmosphere of times gone by on board his African Queen, the time when huge tracts of Africa were -- for Western adventurers at least -- still virgin territory waiting to be explored.

"Gavin wears the same kind of clothes as Humphrey Bogart. We have adopted the fez for the waiters, which is associated with the Sudan, where the Nile makes most of his journey," McLeay said.

"And we are serving gin and tonics, like Humphrey Bogart drank in the movie."

Keeping the engine fed with wood has virtually no environmental impact, McLeay says, since he is using wood left over from a construction project, and he has planted trees to ensure supply when that stock runs out.

"It's probably more environmental friendly then a modern boat," he says.

By Bruce Amp

World’s tiniest church stands in Nebbi

The BethelChurch building on Biku Hill. The chapel can only house three people at a time including the priest.

There are times when you visit a place and it turns out to be a disappointment. Biku Recreation Centre, situated on Biku Hill, 18km from Nebbi town, is no such place.

Apart from its jaw-dropping beauty, the hill boasts of what could be the smallest chapel in the world, standing at a height of 8ft and a width of about 2.5metres.

The place of worship can only accommodate three people, including the preacher.

I will always remember the way I sweated behind the steering wheel as I carefully drove through the bumpy narrow road leading to Biku from Nebbi. Together with Mubiru a colleague and Godfrey a friend, we were on a UN Programme-mission to rediscover Biku.

A Christian having a private moment at one of Biku’s prayer points

The damp and heat of November 30 seeped through my suede jacket, causing my pores to unleash rivers of sweat that soaked my T-shirt. But I was grateful for the fresh air. It was cooler inside the car. Every progress of the journey drove us to more scenic sights and sounds of the valley rivers along the corridors of Nebbi’s rolling hills.

Sylvester Ochopi, the caretaker, walked to the parking lot to welcome us to rest in the shade surrounded by lush flowers.

He told us that the centre’s history dates back to 1996, when Pastor Song, a Korean, together with the retired Archbishop of church of the Uganda, his Lordship Henry Luke Orombi, founded it.

“The centre’s ministry is focused on spiritual healing for individuals and church groups. It is hoped that those who come here will be able to meet with God in a special way, receive a vision for their future and to become bold soldiers for the gospel,” Ochopi explained.

“Africans like to be on the move, so it was felt that providing nine prayer points would create a comfortable setting for people to pray, praise and meditate on God’s word,” he added.

The hike to prayer points

Ochopi invited us to the first climbing challenge destined for prayer point one, which sits on the highest peak of the hill.

None of us had climbing gear, but the hiking challenge turned out to be only half as difficult; Ochopi had exaggerated a bit. We made it to the peak within fifteen minutes.

At the top, we found a big cross at whose feet four pilgrims were meditating on the Lord’s Prayer. Opposite was Prayer point two, a Lilliputian building constructed in remembrance of Jesus Christ. To its eastern and western walls are 12 windows reminiscent of the 12 disciples. 

According to Ochopi, it is at this prayer point that pilgrims pray for Uganda’s neighbouring countries namely Congo, Rwanda, Sudan, Tanzania and Kenya, for spiritual revival and peace. We got a splendid panoramic view of the roaring Namrwodho Falls, which is home to bird species such as the shoebill.

The rocks and caves of Biku

Overlooking the falls are the rolling hills of the Democratic Republic of Congo, whose border is within a walking distance from Biku. Going to prayer point three was a little difficult because the slope was steep. 

Many a time, we literally sprang from one spot to another downwards, only to step on fresh dung of baboons or step on sharp pointed rocks.

This point was built in the shape of Africa and has two entrances. The building has 10 windows symbolic of the 10 commandments, on which  people can meditate while here.   It is purposed for praying for all African countries, especially Islamic countries. 

As the suns’ rays started to seep through the thick canopies of the forest trees, we strolled to a large tranquil flower garden. At its three tips were prayer points four, five and six. 

Prayer point four is shaped like a heart as a sign of Christ’s love and has a cross made of 33 stones to signify the 33 years of Jesus’ life. Prayer point five is in the shape of an arrow-head to signify the speed of the youth. 

Prayer point five has 66 windows representing the books of the bible: 39 windows at the back for the Old Testament and 27 windows on the front for the New Testament. Its three doors are in the shape of a man standing, representing those who are equipped with the word of God.

Prayer point six was given the shape of an altar, as a testimony to the fact that the church is a living offering to Christ’s mission. Rough stones on the cross signify that Christians are “living stones”.

Time for a break

After the first part of the tour, we sat down to relax at the gardens. Godfrey and Mubiru chose to make the most of this break by tracking baboons and monkeys in the jungle surrounding the hill. I gave in to the seduction of the gardens spongy lawns. There was something new and exciting to discover in the gardens for every turn.

The caves

Ochopi soon led us to the seventh prayer point; a round building symbolic of the world. This point is situated behind a towering rock at whose base, a natural open-ended cave curves. 

To give us a pinch of the suffering Jesus went through in his life, we were obliged to crawl through from one end to another.

The terrifying bit of this fiveminute crawl was the darkness inside the cave, plus the fear that it might collapse and bury us underneath.

Namurwondho Falls in Masindi near the Uganda-Congo border

The smallest church

At the eighth prayer point, better known as Bethel Church, inspiring architecture ushered our adventure to its climax. Here stands the dwarf building.

At its entrance, there are 12 windows representing  the 12 stones on Aaron’s breast plate (12 tribes of all the saints). 

The ceiling has seven beams representing the seven colours of the rainbow, which is symbolic of Gods promise never to destroy the earth (with floods) again like in the days of biblical Noah.

Through its eastern window, I could see the cross on the highest peak — at prayer point two — a view which, according to the guide, reflects the need for Christians to always look up to Jesus.

Surprisingly, small as it is, its construction cost up to 79 bags of cement. It was built to last at least 500 years before its foundation weakens.

Nearby are two prayer points which are shaped in the form of a womb, and the main chapel, which is basically a vast chapel with a capacity of over 400 pilgrims.

By Bruce Amp

Camels, Pokot’s gift to Uganda

Kiyong’s camel kraal. Many Pokot households rear camels, which are rare elsewhere in Uganda. The Pokot buy these animals from the Turkana of Kenya

Somewhere deep, in Kakalia village in Amudat district, Karamoja region, loud unusual groans break out almost simultaneously.

A stranger to this part of the country will instinctively react like an alarmed rabbit, turning around with searching interest, only to discover that the unfamiliar noise is from a kraalof camels.

As I walk hesitantly towards the expansive kraal, a yard away, with an expressions of bewilderment on my face, my host, Francis Kiyong, the former Pokot Member of Parliament, bursts into hearty laughter.

“My herd has considerably reduced to 30 camels because I have sold some of them,” he says. He once had 60 camels in his kraal. It is exciting to watch such a big herd of animals that are considered alien by many Ugandans. 

“The incessant groans you heard them making are a signal to their minders that they want to be milked,” explains my host, before quickly turning back and calling for someone in the homestead to come and milk the animals. I wait with bated breath to watch a camel being milked.

In a moment, a woman with a baby strapped on her back, appears with a small kettle. As she starts milking, a boy joins her on the other side of the giant animal.

CALM CREATURES

Margaret Lokeris milking a camel. Camel milk is said to be very nutritious

There is a sharp distinction between milking a camel and cow. Unlike the position of a cow’s udder that will force a person milking it to squat, the camel’s towering stature enables whoever is milking it to do the job while standing. You will also notice that camels are a lot calmer than cows when they are walking.

“A camel can allow to be milked by more than one person, irrespective of whether you are a stranger or a familiar person. It does not kick about or fuss,” explains Margaret Lokeris, the woman milking the camels.

The calf, like its mother, knows what it is expected to do. Prior to the milking exercise, it briefly suckles for about five minutes, then restrains itself and stands aside to wait patiently. 

“A calf will never scramble for its mother’s teats, even when it is very hungry. It will wait until its mother has been milked,” says Kenneth Lusanjo, the little boy helping. A camel is a graceful towering animal standing at around 13-15 feet high. 

According to Kiyong, the towering animal, at maturity, weighs between 350 and 600kg. Camels are rare elsewhere in Uganda, but in this part of the country, many households rear them. Some have herds constituting of 30 to 50 camels.

Nobody knows how the animals became common in this part of the countryside, but Kiyong says they have always bought them from the neighbouring ethnic community, the Turkana, in north western Kenya.

It is interesting watching them graze in the vast dry plains of Karamoja. You will notice that they are fond of short thorny trees, though  they also graze on grass and leaves.

The facial features of a camel appear no different from those of a goat, particularly the nostril and mouth. But perhaps the main distinctive facial feature is the protruding set of eyes. Camels stare in space, in a contemplative mood as they chew cud. 

It is fascinating watching them: A camel opens its mouth unusually wide, but in the process of chewing, its long jaws hang stuck, as if the muscles in one side have grown taut, unable to stretch. Yet at another moment, it is as if the poor animal is choking, this time opening its mouth even wider, almost exposing the depth of its throat.   But even with such seemingly uncomfortable movements, it keeps on chewing.

VALUED ANIMAL 

Camels are valuable animals. A calf costs between sh200,000 and sh300,000, while a mature female camel costs between sh1m and sh1.5m.
 

Camel meat is more tasty than goat meat. The meat is both for home consumption and for sale. A female camel reaches reproductive age when it turns one year. Kiyong says a camel’s gestation period is twelve months and a female can bear up to 30 young ones in its life time. The former legislator says unlike cattle, camels are almost never haunted by any ailment.

“They have a stronger immune system than any of the familiar domestic animals. I must confess that I do not remember spending even a penny on treating them,” explains Kiyong.

According to him, a camel drinks between 20 to 40 litres of water at once, but will go a week or two without another drink. Compared to cows, which cannot be milked when they have just conceived, camels can be milked throughout their life time. They are milked six times a day and can offer between 15 to 20 litres of milk a day. 

PRECIOUS CAMEL MILK 

“Besides being nutritious, camel milk is medicinal in nature, an antidote to almost all the common ailments that haunt children at infancy,” explains Lokeris. He says camel milk has properties to fight measles, TB and whooping cough. 

Dr. Amos Basembera, a veterinary doctor in private practice in Iganga concurs with Lokeris: “Camel milk is very rich in vitamins, minerals and proteins, among other food values essential for everybody, but more so in children as young as a day old.” He says among the crucial food values in camel milk are the minerals of potassium and iron.

“The curative ingredient in the camel milk stems from its diet that usually consists of a variety of rare thorny wild plants that can only grow in the desert,” explains Dr. Basembera. 

A paediatrician at Mulago Hospital, Dr. Ismail Balisanyuka, explains that camel milk is light in nature as compared to cow milk. “It has considerably low levels of cholesterol. Additionally, almost three quarters of camel milk is automatically absorbed by the body, making good use of its multiple nutrients,” explains Balisanyuka.

BEWARE THE MALE

However, while camels are naturally calm animals, the males can be very violent and hostile. You would presume that with their calm appearance, they are easily vulnerable in the cattle rustling prone area, but it is not the case.

“For years, cattle rustlers have learned to live with these animals. When camels detect trouble, their humility and calm translates into resilience,” explains Kiyong. 

James Olekipor, also a camel keeper, says by instinct, camels hate being harassed. One would be lucky to herd them for a distance without them proving their stubborn side.

“On the few occasions rustlers have attempted to drive the camel alongside their loot of cattle, they have suffered a rude jolt,” explains Olekipor. “The camels feign tiredness and resort to sitting down. In extreme desperation, an angry rustler simply shoots them dead,” he says.

By Bruce Amp