At Sezibwa I could stay for ever

It is hard to find something to compare with the feeling you get when standing at the top of the rock where the river performs its boisterous plunge to create the Sezibwa Falls. This vantage point gives a wide view across the rest of the site, a beautiful, vista of nature in peace with itself. I could get lost in the deceptively calm, but extremely deep pool that slowly flows to the cliff and becomes the jumping white froth, bold and beautiful as it splashes in all directions down the cliff.

I could stay here all day, bathing in the slight mist that wafts my way from the fizzing water. I could stand at the bridge and watch the rich view of the lawns and canopied trees below. I could grab a pair of Binoculars and spot a bird or 14, singing, feeding, hunting; in the water and in the trees. I could sit on the scraggly rocks and watch ants go matching one by one or Lizards waiting to catch the, one by one.

I could walk the simple trail down the side of the hill. Walk the wooden bridge that crosses the post-waterfall calmness of the river. I could stand here all mid morning, gazing at the water fall from below to one side, then turn to the other side and disappear into the reeds that become dense forest in a few meters. I could have an extended lunch inside the grass thatched cottage set on a hill, or spread a blanket on the vast lawns and indulge. Spend the rest of the afternoon counting how many red-tailed monkeys I can see in the trees. I could come along with my sisters and a few board games, a skipping rope and a music player for a picnic to remember. I could bring my children, my nieces my nephews for a bit of fun as well as a lesson in geography across the rocks, the river and the trees. I could sunbathe here all afternoon, feeling sleepy till the sun gives up the project, kisses the horizon good evening as a cool breeze raises goose bumps on my arms.

I could never fall asleep here though, for with the fall of the night, the reality that this area is also a traditional Ganda shrine brings new goose bumps all over the body. I could never bring myself to get so close, but I have seen, from a distance, a cock slaughtered and the smoke rising from the bunt offerings; and a man dressed in bark cloth dance the dance of the possessed. I have seen up close, the feathers and the coffee beans as proof of past ritual sacrifices. In the culture, every extraordinary phenomenon of nature wins a worshipper or two, whole clans or tribes dedicated to pleasing the diety believed to reside therein.

But anyone could learn so much about Buganda’s history and culture, by talking to the guides and hearing the legends they recite about the river’s formation. A guide can show you one of the oldest trees here a nkalati species supposedly planted by Kabaka Mwanga and another planted by over a century later, by Mwanga’s great grandson and current Kabaka, Ronald Mutebi, at the inauguration of theirs site as a tourism destination.

I could never let the hair-raising side of Sezibwa stop me from another visit, though. For before men made gods of natural things, God made nature for man to enjoy. So I could never fail to recommend Sezibwa Falls to friends.

By Bruce Amp

Walking the stretch of the Nile isn’t for the faint-hearted

Levinson Wood has been the center of attention since he started his walk to follow the River Nile from its source to the end. It took him three years of planning before he came to Africa, ready to navigate swamps infested with crocodiles and confront diseases. But never was he prepared for the anti-climax of a journalist, Mathew Powers, 39, who died of sun heat stroke in Uganda while covering his expedition.

I bumped into a somber Wood in Adjumani, hours before he crossed to war-ton South Sudan. “Powers’ death set me back by seven days,” said Wood, using a baseball cap to protect his eyes from the sweltering sun. “I was shocked and saddened.  He had arrived two days earlier to begin taking video footage of my adventure.  His abrupt death occurred in Ajai Reserve Camp. He started vomiting and bleeding through the nose at 8:30am and died shortly after,” he said.

“By then, the temperature had shot to 89 degrees Fahrenheit. I could not help but wonder whether I could end up like Powers,” Wood said. “But after talking to his widow, I was encouraged to brave the huddles. I have stuck to covering 20 km per day. In my company is a Guide called Boston. He knows this region like the back of his hand.” The next day, after having bed and breakfast at Zawadi Hotel, Wood described the last 100 miles covered as difficult times.” He said one time; he had omusu (a wild rat) for lunch.

“After roasting it, the piece of meat looked too black. But Boston suggested we spice it with peanut sauce. This was a treat after doing 34km that brought us to Adjumani district. I considered it a feast before embarking at the Nimule challenge in South Sudan,” Wood said.

But why does he take such risk? Wood said many people have read about or seen the River Nile, but have never seen it or the people living by it. Therefore, he is doing to bridge the gap.

“Great civilizations have emerged on the banks of River Nile,” Wood said. “In my tour company, there are people who want to paddle its waters and visit its source. That inspired me to walk its full length of 4,250 miles through seven countries on its way to Egypt,” he said. Wood added that one needs navigation skills, a willingness to learn and flexibility for such a trip. “The trick is to take each day as it comes. That is how I manage to stay motivated and keep the momentum. When I get lost, with Boston’s command of Kiswahili, we depend on the local people for directions.”

Wood is now trekking through South Sudan, from where he posted updates on his facebook about the thousands of people dispersed and killed. He had to leave the river’s bank due to lack of food and some suspect porters. “In Sudan, I walk franked by three AK47 gun-wielding guards from the Condo battalion,” Wood posted. “A Biker in tow with my supplies. This section of the expedition has been a challenge. I did not have the political unrest there in my planning.” Worse still, the camera crew has to get permission from several people to shoot the four part documentary series for the UK and US audience is due to be broadcast on Britain’s Channel Four and Animal Planet in the US. The crew and wood meet for three to four days every week to get footage of his adventure.

  “At one time, the TV crew was arrested while filming a bridge,” Wood recounted. “Then they were arrested for shooting a memorial monument. Trekking through jungle state has not been easy. I cannot predict who or what I am going to encounter” “We are keeping a close eye on what is happening,” Wood posted. “If anything, I might be forced to end my journey.” So far, all has been good save for curious onlookers. Finding food has been easy as there are villages along the entire River Nile route.

At the Uganda Wildlife Headquarters in Kampala, the executive director, Andrew Seguya, assured him of maximum security and guides through the Park. Going by his facebook posts, as the days have turned to moths Wood sounded upbeat.

When he ventured into Maama Fina’s (Sylivia Namutebi) shrine for a ritual milk bath, the picture went viral on social media, receiving mixed reactions. “Wood wants to portray Uganda as a backward society,” posted an irate facebooker commenting about the ritual which was said to strengthen him 1,000 times more than he was. In response, others argued that many Ugandans consult witchdoctors for success in business and politics. Other critics say Wood should have paid dearly for the footage in Uganda, because his voyage includes Rwanda which is contesting Uganda’s place as the source of River Nile.

Now working as an expedition leader and photo journalist, Wood has been traveling to Africa for the last 15 years. Previously, his expedition has led him to parts of the world like Iran, which enables him understand the culture, religion and politics of the people he encounters. “There is lots of fun in travelling. First of all, owning a Tour Company means I sell a destination I know well. Then as a writer and a photographer, there is lots of material I have got out there. I keep self-filming my moments and this has made me very popular on Facebook,” Wood said.

By Bruce Amp

My stormy expedition to Ngamba Island

Going to Ngamba Island in a stormy weather was the typical now or never situation

Last Saturday morning, close to 30 delegates, including officials from the Ministry of Tourism, Wildlife andAntiquities, the Uganda Tourism Board and members of the media assembled at Waterfront Beach, Entebbe to set off for familiarization trip to Ngamba IslandChimpanzee Sanctuary.

But at departure time, the clouds started developing “mood swings”, giving us a sign that the 50 minute boat ride to the island could leave us soaked, unless we wait for the clouds to clear. However, rather than wait for the clouds to clear, we chose to brave the troubled waters in the 30 – seater tour Boart. Our persistence was, however, not out for the desire to get to the island soon, but rather because we were adrenalin junkies who could not wait to experience the rain while on the lake. May be we were taking this madness too far, as the captain thought, but it was the typical now or never situation.

The adventure was definitely by its extremes. First off was a piece of paradise as the boat drifted away from the slimy green waters at the pier, which looked like they had been polluted. We beheld the delightful reflection of the forested island and the cozy blue skys on the calm lake. Evelyn, one of the team leaders of the expedition, kept her eyes locked to this scene.  “Its adorable,” she exclaimed while doing her best to subdue the excitement that was bubbling inside her. Herman Olimi, a tourism photographer, remarked that this sport of the lake was just perfect for taking unforgettable pictures that end up as screen savers.

The winds caressed my dry skin and awakened all my senses. However, it was not long before the extreme downside of the trip interrupted this luxurious moment. The ugly dark nimbus clouds let loose. Ironically, those we expected to keep up with the macho attitude were the ones taking cover by burying their heads under the life jackets. To say they were scared is quite an understatement. They looked terrified. However, though the fear was contagious, everyone was confident in the strong build of the boats. In any case, we had life jackets on. Thirty minutes later, the storm was still lashing the lake. The captain advised us to switch off our phones, lest we end up being stuck by lightening. Meanwhile, strong waves whipped upwards from the lake and hit us from the sides. In no time, we were soaked. This reminded me of the water rafting expedition – the only difference is that while in rafting you pursue the rapids; on this boat the stormy and angry weather seemed to be chasing us like we owed it an apology.

Suddenly, the roaring boat engines went silent. I could feel my breath coming in shorter gasps. Apparently, the choppy journey had consumed all the fuel. It was right about this time that I felt something warming my right thigh. If my guess was right must have loosened his bladder to flash out the fright that had built in him. However, he was not the only coward cursing for coming on the expedition. It was a relief to learn there was extra fuel on board, so we were soon on our way again.

After that seemed like eternity, the dark clouds started to shy away. We approached the landing site of the pristine Ngamba Island, where we were treated to a warm reception by the hospitable staff. They gave us hot drinks to up our body temperatures, and offered us clothes to change, since the ones we had were soaked. Though at first we were reluctant, we latter obliged. “I insist,” one of the staff members said “Please change your clothes. We would like to Iron them dry before you proceed to watch the chimpanzees feeding,” he said.

Getting rain soaked on a boat ride was a thrilling experience in its own right, though it is not guaranteed as it is controlled by nature. If I want a repeat I would have to check the weather forecast and carry changing clothes and a water proof bag to protect them. 

By Bruce Amp