Walking the stretch of the Nile isn’t for the faint-hearted

Levinson Wood has been the center of attention since he started his walk to follow the River Nile from its source to the end. It took him three years of planning before he came to Africa, ready to navigate swamps infested with crocodiles and confront diseases. But never was he prepared for the anti-climax of a journalist, Mathew Powers, 39, who died of sun heat stroke in Uganda while covering his expedition.

I bumped into a somber Wood in Adjumani, hours before he crossed to war-ton South Sudan. “Powers’ death set me back by seven days,” said Wood, using a baseball cap to protect his eyes from the sweltering sun. “I was shocked and saddened.  He had arrived two days earlier to begin taking video footage of my adventure.  His abrupt death occurred in Ajai Reserve Camp. He started vomiting and bleeding through the nose at 8:30am and died shortly after,” he said.

“By then, the temperature had shot to 89 degrees Fahrenheit. I could not help but wonder whether I could end up like Powers,” Wood said. “But after talking to his widow, I was encouraged to brave the huddles. I have stuck to covering 20 km per day. In my company is a Guide called Boston. He knows this region like the back of his hand.” The next day, after having bed and breakfast at Zawadi Hotel, Wood described the last 100 miles covered as difficult times.” He said one time; he had omusu (a wild rat) for lunch.

“After roasting it, the piece of meat looked too black. But Boston suggested we spice it with peanut sauce. This was a treat after doing 34km that brought us to Adjumani district. I considered it a feast before embarking at the Nimule challenge in South Sudan,” Wood said.

But why does he take such risk? Wood said many people have read about or seen the River Nile, but have never seen it or the people living by it. Therefore, he is doing to bridge the gap.

“Great civilizations have emerged on the banks of River Nile,” Wood said. “In my tour company, there are people who want to paddle its waters and visit its source. That inspired me to walk its full length of 4,250 miles through seven countries on its way to Egypt,” he said. Wood added that one needs navigation skills, a willingness to learn and flexibility for such a trip. “The trick is to take each day as it comes. That is how I manage to stay motivated and keep the momentum. When I get lost, with Boston’s command of Kiswahili, we depend on the local people for directions.”

Wood is now trekking through South Sudan, from where he posted updates on his facebook about the thousands of people dispersed and killed. He had to leave the river’s bank due to lack of food and some suspect porters. “In Sudan, I walk franked by three AK47 gun-wielding guards from the Condo battalion,” Wood posted. “A Biker in tow with my supplies. This section of the expedition has been a challenge. I did not have the political unrest there in my planning.” Worse still, the camera crew has to get permission from several people to shoot the four part documentary series for the UK and US audience is due to be broadcast on Britain’s Channel Four and Animal Planet in the US. The crew and wood meet for three to four days every week to get footage of his adventure.

  “At one time, the TV crew was arrested while filming a bridge,” Wood recounted. “Then they were arrested for shooting a memorial monument. Trekking through jungle state has not been easy. I cannot predict who or what I am going to encounter” “We are keeping a close eye on what is happening,” Wood posted. “If anything, I might be forced to end my journey.” So far, all has been good save for curious onlookers. Finding food has been easy as there are villages along the entire River Nile route.

At the Uganda Wildlife Headquarters in Kampala, the executive director, Andrew Seguya, assured him of maximum security and guides through the Park. Going by his facebook posts, as the days have turned to moths Wood sounded upbeat.

When he ventured into Maama Fina’s (Sylivia Namutebi) shrine for a ritual milk bath, the picture went viral on social media, receiving mixed reactions. “Wood wants to portray Uganda as a backward society,” posted an irate facebooker commenting about the ritual which was said to strengthen him 1,000 times more than he was. In response, others argued that many Ugandans consult witchdoctors for success in business and politics. Other critics say Wood should have paid dearly for the footage in Uganda, because his voyage includes Rwanda which is contesting Uganda’s place as the source of River Nile.

Now working as an expedition leader and photo journalist, Wood has been traveling to Africa for the last 15 years. Previously, his expedition has led him to parts of the world like Iran, which enables him understand the culture, religion and politics of the people he encounters. “There is lots of fun in travelling. First of all, owning a Tour Company means I sell a destination I know well. Then as a writer and a photographer, there is lots of material I have got out there. I keep self-filming my moments and this has made me very popular on Facebook,” Wood said.

By Bruce Amp