Beyond the Fires: Reviving the Kasubi Tombs

Kasubi, the showpiece of Buganda’s heritage is evidently enjoying a new lease of life. The resting place of Buganda’s previous four kings, also known in Luganda as Muzibu Azaala Mpanga, ill-fatedly went up in flames four years ago. The intact Kasubi was in many people’s opinion, a prime example of exquisite traditional Ganda architecture. Part of its allure was its ling history, dating back over 150 years. The location of Kasubi tombs was the site of Ssekabaka Mutesa I’s palace in 1956. It was known as the Kasubi Nabulagala palace. It was also the capital of Buganda Kingdom. When he died in1884, following following the Buganda Burial customs of Kings, he was buried in his palace. Others buried in the tombs include Kabaka Mwanga, Daudi Chwa and Mutesa II.

Kasubi tombs were inscribed on the United NationsEducational Scientific and Cultural Organization world heritage list in 2001 because of its rich culture. Perhaps this is what makes it the most prominent cultural site in the Kingdom. Since its destruction in 2010, the Buganda Kingdom and other partners have been on a reconstruction drive to rebuild not only the mausoleums, but the rest of the site. From the time he assumed office in 2013, Buganda’s Prime Minister, Katikkiro Charles Peter Mayiga has been at the helm of efforts to fundraise for the reconstruction of the valued cultural site. At the beginning, the target was to complete reconstruction works by March 16, 2014, but work had stalled for three years. Many however, wonder whether the site will be restored to its magnificence was destroyed.

RESTORATION IN PROGRESS

A new perimeter wall running around the entire 64 acres of land on which the Kasubi tombs are located  is an attraction in its self. The last time I visited this place, it was only marked with with several giant trees as boundary marks. The perimeter wall is festooned with reeds to make it more attractive, like an old fashioned palace. Sculpted lions resting on their haunches decorate the towering gate of the main entrance. Lighting has also been fixed at different points of the fence as part of the security measures taken to avert tragedies like the fire.

To avoid the trappings of modern architectire from completely submerging the traditional omport of the place, the Iron Gate has also been designed to look like reeds.  Unlike before, all all people are subject to thorough chechs by security gurds at the main gate before accessing the tradional gate house called Bujjabulula. It is guarded by Nsigo from the Buffalo clan and Mulamba from the Mushroom clan, whose gurd positions and names are hereditary. All visitors go through this cultural entrance. It took me 15 minutes to get cleared because of the long queue of people visiting. I was received by Aisha Nanyonga one of the tour Guides.

INSIDE

Bujjabukula house has a grass thatched roof, designed with a series of rings held up by strong poles, similar to the ones that adorned Muzibu Azaala Mpanga before it was raised. There is a reception office on the left immediately after the gate house. It also acts as a crafts shop. Next to it is another grass thatched house called Ndoga obukaba, where different royal drums are kept.

The keeper of this house is called Kawuula and must live a celibate life. The rule of celibacy was instigated by Ssekabaka Mutesa I to block guards from engaging with his wives in the palace. Many were made eunuchs to ensure this. Women are forbidden from entering this house.

THREE ROYAL DRUMS.

“There are three types of drums kept here for different purposes in the kingdom. They are played on different occasions as a means of communication to Kabaka’s subjects. We are gratefull they were saved from fire ,” she adds. The drums have exisited for over 130 years. They include Mujjaguzo, played at the enthronement ceremony of the king.

“This drum was sounded in 1856 when Mutesa I ascended the throne. It is now platyed on Kabaka Mutebi’s coronation anniversaries,” Nanyonga explains. Another drum, Buntadde, is sounded to announce the arrival and departure of a royal family member at the palace, while the Kanaba drum is always sounded to announce the death of a member of the royal family.

By Bruce Amp